Healing - Experience - Fire Festival



Nachi no Hi Matsuri (Nachi Fire Festival)
 
This festival is also called 'Ogi Matsuri (fan festival)'. In this festival 12 big blazing torches are carried up and down in circles on the stonesteps at the base of the Nachi Waterfall to purify 12 Ogi mikoshi ('portable fan shrines'). Nachi no Hi Matsuri (Ogi Matsuri), which used to be called Ogieshiki, is one of the many festivals held regularly at the Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine throughout the year.

The festival falls on July 14 each year. In the morning there are ritual Shinto offerings such as the Nachi no Dengaku and Yamatomai (traditional music and dance). In the afternoon the 12 Ogi mikoshi ('fan portable shrines') and the 12 big torches are carried towards the Hiryu Shrine near Nachi Waterfall. At first, a sacred ritual is held at the shrine. Then the torches are lit at the the base of Nachi Waterfall. The torches are then carried up and down in ritual procession to purify the portable shrines, which are also purified by the mist coming off the waterfall itself. It is said that this is how the gods of Kumano make their annual journey to their original 'palace', the Nachi Waterfall, to revive themselves before returning to their shrines.
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Niko no Hi Matsuri (Niko Fire Festival)
 
This festival has a 500 year old history and is held in the Kongoin Temple at Nikawa, in Yukawa, which is in the district of Nachikatsuura Town. This festival is held during the period of the Bon Festival (a traditional Buddhist festival held in mid-summer for honouring one's ancestors). This fire festival is to console the souls of the young men who sacrificed themselves in a conflict with a neighboring village over a land issue. This is an exciting fire festival in which young men throw flaming pine torches up into the air creating a spectacular sight. At 7 o'clock in the evening the young men, dressed in white costumes and headbands, light their torches and run up toward the Megami Hachiman Shrine, where they throw their torches toward a wire attached to a steel pole. The torches illuminate the mountainside making great arcs of light as they burn away. It is an exciting and beautiful festival of which the locals are very proud.
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Hashiramatsu (Hashiramatsu Fire Festival)
 
This is another fire festival where people throw little fire torches into a basket at the top of a tall cedar pole located in the center of a local square. The photo shows 'Hashiramatsu in Iruka' near Kiwa Town. This festival was originally held as a means to exorcise those diseased by a plague. This festival can be seen not only in Kiwa Town but also in Taiji Town, Sano (in Shingu City), and in Ehime Prefecture. They are all held around the time of the Bon Festival in August and according to the lunar calendar. This festival is open to everybody, so you may wish to experience the 'healing fire' of this Bon Festival yourself.
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Oto Matsuri Festival
 
Kamikura Shrine
 
The Oto Matsuri is an important regional festival which is held every year on the 6th of February and is one of the two great 'fire festivals' of Kumano. The other one is Nachi Ogi Matsuri, held in the summer. The Oto Matsuri culminates at Kamikura Shrine which is located on the side of Chihogamine Mountain overlooking Shingu City. In this exciting and somewhat dangerous festival almost 2000 men gather bravely at the upper shrine before running down long and steep stone steps at breakneck speed with blazing torches in hand. This part of the festival is described in a local song which sings, 'The mountain is covered with a falling stream of fire, descending like a dragon.' The origin of this festival goes back to the Nara Era, and it is said to have a lot to do with Mountain Buddhism which considers fire as a sacred symbol. The festival is open to all men, young and old regardless of origin. Recently more and more people are coming from the big cities like Osaka and Tokyo to join in the festivities. Non-Japanese have also been known to participate.
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Shiogori Purification Celemony
 
The men who participate in the Oto Matsuri festival are called 'Noboriko'. In order to purify themselves Noboriko are traditionally supposed to eat nothing but white food such as tofu, white fishcake, white rice, sake, and so on (white having the symbolic meaning of purity in Japan). There also used to be a custom of doing 'Shiogori' at 'Ojigahama' beach. This is a ceremony in which the Noboriko seek to purify themselves in the salt water of the sea before dressing up in the traditional costume of the festival. Today, a number of Kumano enthusiasts are attempting to revive this part of the festival by gathering at the beach to perform the traditional ceremonies as in ancient times.
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Costuming
 
The costume worn by the Noboriko is all white and participants wear waraji, which are hand woven straw sandals. A thick straw rope is wrapped around their waist in order to protect the participants in case they fall down the steep stone steps as they run down to the lower gate of the Kamikura Shrine. To be wrapped in the sacred rope also signifies the process of being purified.
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Taimastu(Torches)
 
The torches that the participants carry are about 1 meter long, made of Japanese cypress, with long wood shavings, called 'hana', attached to their tips. Each participant has his prayers written on his torch such as 'Thriving Business' or 'May I achieve my special wish'. After the festival is over, the participants will place the remains of their burned torches in the Shinto altars that you can see in most homes in Japan. It will be kept there for one year. The little torch on the left in the photo is used by people who are unable to physically participate in the festival. They write their prayers on it and ask a friend who will participate to take this torch along with him.
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Dressing Up
 
Participants dress in white underwear, a white shirt, white tights and a straw rope wrapped around their waist 5 or 7 times. Using odd numbers is a Shinto. Each of these customs carries a hidden symbolic meaning according to the ancient Japanese Shinto tradition. Friends help each other to dress up in the traditional attire. First-time participants can get always get help from the festival veterans.
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Tanomude("together we go")
 
After dressing up in an all white outfit topped with a white cap or a white bandanna around the head, participants are ready to begin the festival. After Noboriko (the participants of this festival) leave their home in the evening they gather with a group of friends or colleagues to walk around Shingu performing what is called 'Sansha Mairi' (Three Shrines Visit). One by one they gather and say prayers at Hayatama Grand Shrine, Asuka Shrine, and Myoushinji Temple before crossing the bridge at the entrance of Kamikura Shrine. On their way to the three shrines, they will pass many other participants in the street. When they meet they greet one another by saying 'Tanomude!' ('together we go'). As they pass by another group they will hit each other's torch lightly as a kind of salute to courage.
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Ascending Kamikura
 
Participants must climb up an extremely steep stone pathway called 'Kamakurazumi' built over 800 years ago. The first 200 steps out of 538 steps from the bottom to the area called 'Nakanojizo' are so steep that some have to get down on all fours. (These stone steps are a prefectural cultural treasure of Wakayama.) The participants climb up these stonesteps slowly toward the precincts of the shrine.
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Waiting for the Sacred Fire
 
This picture shows the grounds around the shrine on the inner side of the 'torii' (shrine gateway). A priest will start a small fire using flint stones and the fire is then carried halfway down the mountain to an area called Nakanojizo. It is then brought back up to light the participants' torches. When the approximately 2000 torches are all lit it looks as if the mountain were on fire. You can hear the participants' cheers roaring throughout the city. It becomes a place of feverish excitement, full of sparks of fire and smoke. As soon as the Kaishakunin (the person who guards the gate) opens the gate the participants race down the stonesteps to see who can arrive at the bottom first. From a distance it looks as though a fire dragon were descending the mountain.
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Myoushinji Temple
 
This is Myoushinji Temple, the ancient headquarters of the Kumano Bikuni, the Japanese nuns who walked all over Japan spreading the Kumano Gongen faith. It is one of the three main places where participants in the festival visit to pray. It is located close to Kamikura Shrine which was paired up with the temple in the time when Buddhism and Shinto were unified.
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Sharing the Sacred Fire
 
It becomes a place of feverish excitement, full of sparks of fire and smoke. As soon as the Kaishakunin (the person who guards the gate) opens the gate the participants race down the stonesteps to see who can arrive at the bottom first. From a distance it looks as though a fire dragon were descending the mountain.
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