Healing - Experience - Okumotori, Kogumotori Old road (No.2)


Healing - Experience - Nakaheji Old road (No.1)
Healing - Experience - From  Hongu to Shingu (No.3)
Healing - Experience - Kumano Kaido Old road (No.4)


Kogumo Kodo and Shin Chaya
 
The ruins of many teahouses remain in the area of Kogumotori which tell of an age when thousands of pilgrims passed through the region on the way to the Kumano Sanzan (Three Grand Shrines of Kumano). Many of the teahouses have names related to trees. The path from the town of Koguchi to the ruins of Sakura Chaya (Cherry Blossom Teahouse) is known for its beautiful scenery. From the Heian era until the Meiji period many pilgrims passing through the towns of Koguchi to this teahouse would stop and enjoy tea and the beautiful cherry blossoms in spring and refresh themselves for the next leg of the journey.
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Kogumo Kodo and Kogumotorigoe
 
Kogumo Kodo and Kogumotorigoe are along the path which meanders through the mountains from Nachi to Hongu. From the Heian Era until the Meiji Era this was an important section of the Kumano Kodo Old Road for the followers of the Sanzan Shinkou (Three Grand Shrine Religion).
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Shin Chaya
 
A new chaya (tea house) was recently built near the ruins of Sakura Chaya which overlooks the hamlet of Koguchi far down in the valley among the mountains. Here you can bask in the warmth of the sun, and hear the whisper of the wind and the sound of birds chirping; an oasis halfway along the path of 'Kogumotorigoe'. The entire walk takes about four and a half hours.
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Hyakumagura
 
The view from Hyakumagura can make you feel as if you could take all the mountains of Kumano into the palm of your hand. In the distance you can see the mountains spreading out in layers before your eyes. As you look over the ridges and valleys you can breathe deeply and enjoy a feeling of fullness and well-being. In that moment your breath and the mountain breeze become one. As you breathe out you can let all your troubles and worries be carried away by the breeze of the gods blowing over the mountains.
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Kogumotori and Sakurachaya
 
Meandering through forests and hills the road to the Sakura Teahouse in Kogumotori is paved with stones. The beautiful contrast of green and simple stone paths will be carved into the mind of any pilgrim who passes through. Since this path was considered a sacred pilgrimage route for those practicing Shugendo (Mountain Buddhism), cutting trees within about 1800m from the path used to be prohibited. Stone paths, Butsuzo (stone Buddha statues), natural forests, solemnity, and silence...prayerfully walking along this ancient stone road will indeed bring you closer to the spirit of Kumano and you will understand why thousands of pilgrims walked these paths in search of physical and spiritual renewal.
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The Path of Ishidatami(CobbleStone Path)
 
Walking paths paved with stones are everywhere to be found in the Kogumotori district. It is as if every step we take on them would tell us about the hardship and great effort it took to actually build these roads across Kumano. Passing Koguchi and crossing the suspension bridge over Akagi River will lead you to a wider stone path. The path is easy to walk on and its atmosphere is somewhat feminine. When the valleys below are laden with cloud and mist it feels as if you were walking on 'Heaven's Highway'.
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Saino Kawara
 
Saino Kawara is a mythological place in Buddhist cosmology whose name literally means 'the river side of Sai'. According to legend this is the place where people go after death, before being reborn into the 'other world'. It is symbolic that this site, found here on the Kumano Kodo Old Road, is known by the same name, a further confirmation of Kumano's reputation as a 'land of rebirth'. The sunshine filtering through the thick foliage of large trees landing on small stones covered with layers of moss creates a mysterious atmosphere which evokes images of the mythical Saino Kawara.
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Ookumo Kusunokubo
 
Just before coming to the village of Koguchi, after passing the Echizen Toge Summit there can be found the ruins of Kusunokubo Teahouse, nestled in the cedar forest. Pilgrims would rest and refresh themselves here before continuing on to Koguchi and beyond.
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Ookumotori no Jizo
 
From Mt. Nachi along the Ookumotori Path between Funami Toge Pass and Echizen Toge Pass there are 33 stone Boddhisatva statues in a small shrine in the middle of the forest. The photograph here shows a similar stone statue moss covered and standing alone in the misty forest.
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Ookumojizo Chaya
 
There are ruins of a teahouse next to a shrine which houses 33 Boddhisattva 33 stone statues which you can see in the photo. The Ookumotori Chaya Teahouse used to be popular among pilgrims and is found just after Funami Summit. On a clear day you can see the sea in the distance from this summit.
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Daimonzaka
 
Daimonzaka is one approach to Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine and Seigantoji Temple, the final destination of the Kumano Pilgrimage (see Sankei Miya Mandala). This is one of the few sections of the Kumano Kodo Old Road that still remain fully intact. As you walk up this path, you will catch your first glimpse of the Nachi Waterfall. Before entering the Shrine precincts it was once custom to report in at a checkpoint which used to be along this section of the path. This part of the path is called Daimonzaka because at one time there used to be a large Gate called NioMon, where a guardian spirit of the Nachi Shrine resided. The gate was later moved to Seiganji Temple.
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Tafuke Oji Shrine
 
Found along the path of Daimonsaka this the last Oji shrine to be found just before arriving at the Nachi Grand Shrine. It is located after Furikase Bridge and Meoto Sugi ('Husband and Wife Cedar'). After crossing Kase bridge one passes from the outer mundane world into the sacred world.
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Kumano Pilgrimage in the Modern Age
 
The town of Nachi Katsuura regularly holds a festival called 'Again Kumano Mode' meaning 'Kumano Pilgrimage Again'. This festival tries to recreate the bustling atmosphere reminiscent of the golden age of Kumano.

Participants in the festival walk along the Daimonsaka section of the Kumano Kodo Old Road dressed in medieval costumes. Tourists are welcome to participate and can experience for themselves a taste of Kumano as it was around the Heian Era.

The 'Again Kumano Mode' Festival especially tries to revive the festive atmosphere which took place when Emperor Goshirakawa, on one of his many pilgrimages, visited Kumano. It is said he made the pilgrimage to Kumano 34 times (more than any other Emperor in Japanese history).

This is truly remarkable given the fact that it was about a 20 day return trip on foot, travelling through rough terrain to arrive in Kumano from Kyoto. You can see some modern day pilgrims clad in the attire of famous historical figures of Heian Era and walking on the path of Daimonsaka. The emperor was carried on a palanquin, guarded by several warriors.
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