Healing - Experience - Kumano Kaido Old road (No.4)


Healing - Experience - Nakaheji Old road (No.1)
Healing - Experience - Okumotori, Kogumotori Old road (No.2)
Healing - Experience - From  Hongu to Shingu (No.3)


Hatasu
 
Near Kumano City, in the town of Hatasu, the remains of the 'Kumano Iseji Road' can be found. 'Hatasu' is a name which signifies an important relation to the coming of Jofuku to this area more than two thousand years ago. This road may have been one of the main roads by which culture and technology from the outside world reached inland Japan as well as being the route which brought pilgrims back to Kumano, the source of this cultural influence at that time. References to the 'Kumano Old Road-Iseji Road', in connection with Japan's most holy shrine Ise Jingu, can be found in some texts in Noh plays. The road at that time was steep and dangerous and people took on a good deal of hardship to traverse it. Still, thousands of pilgrims walked the road since ancient times believing that they were on the road of 'vast benevolence' and treading the path leading to 'rebirth'.
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The 'Kumano Old Road' in Mie Prefecture
 
Although pilgrims on the 'Kumano Old Road' suffered some hardship it was not entirely without its pleasures too. The magnificent scenery, the hotsprings, the lush forests, and the splendid beaches along the Pacific coast allowed some respite for the pilgrims on their way to the Grand Shrines of Kumano. In the hustle and bustle of our highly technological, commodity-abundant, and fast-paced lives Kumano still offers the modern pilgrim some respite from the pressures of modernity and offers some glimpse into the past and into the future and begs us to consider the possibility of a life in coexistence with nature. The Kumano Old Road perhaps can allow us to discover here in Kumano some of the richness lost in the rush of urban living.
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Yagiyama goe(passing over Mt. Yagi)
 
Kumano Kaido High Road', another name for the Iseji road, is the road of pilgrimage from Ise to Kumano. This road passes over Mt. Yagi which is on the west side of Owase City. This part of the road is the hardest part of the Kumano Kaido.

The photo here shows members of the Kumano Field Museum Tour (1994) being guided over Mt Yagi. The road over Yagiyama Pass in Owase City is reminiscent of the original 'Kumano Kaido High Road'. It is said to have been one of the most difficult parts of the Kumano Kaido. This road passes through Japanese Cypress forests unlike the Kumano Old Road which is famous for its cedar forests.

The part of the road from Owase City to the pass remains the same as in ancient times, featuring many old stone walls and milestones all along the way.
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Yagiyama Chouseki
 
Several milestones or 'chouseki' can be found along the Kumano Kodo Old Road on Yagi Mountain. They were all made in the shape of Jizobosatsu (Boddhisatva) by promoters and guides of the Kumano pilgrimages to the Ise Shrine.

There also remain tombstones of the pilgrims who died during their pilgrimages along this road. The oldest Buddhist statue on this road was made in 1569.
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View from Yagi Mountain
 
From Mt. Yagi one can enjoy this view of Owase City and Magose Toge Pass. Travelling the Kumano Kodo Iseji Road, you can see the hamlet of Kuki quietly nestled into a bay on the Pacific Ocean. You can also take in the view of Hidegatake, the highest peak of Odaigahara.
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Koujin Do
 
Also called 'Nichirinji Temple', Koujin Do is located near the summit of Mt. Yagi. It is said to have been built in 702. In the past there used to be teahouses and other facilities nearby at the height of the Kumano Mode Pilgrimage era. Traditionally this was also the place for preparing for the '33 Kannon Temple Pilgrimage in the Kansai region of western Japan. Even now Shugendo (Mountain Buddhism) devotees perform regular rituals at Koujin Do although they do not reside there on a permanent basis.
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Placement of the Old Road Milestones
 
In modern times the distances between milestones and how they are placed have been altered over time.
The reason for this is that local historians have gathered those milestones which were dislocated through natural disasters and relocated them in different places.
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Magose Toge Pass
 
Magose Toge Pass, between Miyama Town and Owase, still features an old stone paved road, made in the Edo Era, which is kept just as it was in the days of the Kumano Pilgrimage. After passing over this summit pilgrims would enter into Owase city on their way to Kumano from Ise.
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